The Elms: A Luxurious Newport Mansion Garden

The Elms is one of the grandest mansions in Newport. Fans of The Gilded Age serial have seen the servant kitchens and one of its bedrooms appear as parts of the Russell residence. One of the finest examples of Beaux Arts architecture and landscape in America, The Elms was built by Edward Julius and Herminie Berwind of Philadelphia and New York. Edward was the son of a German immigrant and made his fortune in the coal industry. He was considered one of the 30 most powerful men in the United States, and counted President Teddy Roosevelt and Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany among his personal friends. Herminie’s father was a junior partner at the largest American marble works, served as the American Consul to Florence, Italy, and was an accomplished sculptor. Together, the Berwinds shared a passion for music, the arts, and entertaining.

They hired Philadelphia architect Horace Trumbauer to design a summer estate modeled after the mid-18th-century French chateau d’Asnieres. Construction of The Elms was completed in 1901 at a reported cost of $1.4 million. 

The gardens of The Elms were developed from 1902 to 1914 under the direction of Trumbauer, who produced the drawings and plans for the grand allée, marble pavilions, and sunken garden. The gardens were originally conceived as a place for staging grand entertainments and as an outdoor sculpture gallery, with several large pieces by European sculptors.

The Elms is a prime example of the Classical Revival Style in architecture and landscape design. During the late 1880s, both patrons and architects were attracted to French classicism as a new approach for estates with formal, aristocratic pretensions. Newport had become the most fashionable summer resort, and therefore the logical site for the American version of the maison de plaisance, or pleasure pavilion, a French concept that idealized a perfect unification of house and garden. At The Elms, the terraces ease the transition from the ballroom to the open air. They also provide a platform from which viewers could observe the garden. 

From 1902 to 1907, the gardens were a picturesque park with specimen trees and a small lily pond. After 1907, the garden underwent changes due to newer theories in American landscape architecture. In the early 20th century, tastes in America became heavily influenced by Charles Adams Platt and Edith Wharton, both of whom published works exhorting Italian villas and their gardens.

Stylish Americans adapted their country estates by adding gravel-lined forecourts, planted terracing, formal stairs and water features, herbaceous borders, and pergolas. Trumbauer reworked The Elms’ garden to reflect this new revival of classical Italian design. The pond became the present sunken garden at the back of the estate. Viewed from the terraces and summerhouses, the intricate patterning of annuals, ivy, yews, and euonymous is delightful. 

The Great Lawn, planted with specimen trees, connected the house to the new gardens. Immense weeping beeches partially concealed the fountains and pavilions, creating a sense of intrigue. An allee of topiaries was installed parallel to the sunken garden. A new garage, stable, and carriage house complex was designed to appear as a French chateau with its own terrace, arcade, fountain, and topiaries.

The Berwinds did not have any children. After his wife's death, Edward enlisted his sister, Julia, to act as the hostess at his homes in Newport and New York City. Edward died in 1936, and Julia enjoyed spending summers at The Elms until her death in 1961. Since none of the relatives were interested in the property, the family auctioned off the contents of the estate and sold the property to a developer. In 1962, just weeks before it was to be demolished, The Elms was purchased by the Preservation Society of Newport County for $116,000 and opened as a museum.

The Elms is a wonderful destination at all times of the year. The mansion is beautifully decorated for Christmas every year, and a new cafe in the carriage house offers lunch both indoors and on the patio.

The Elms, 367 Bellevue Ave., Newport, RI (401) 847-1000, newportmansions.org/explore/the-elms

Gilded Age Splendor in the Hudson River Valley

In 1895 Cornelius Vanderbilt’s grandson Frederick and his wife, Louise, bought the Hudson River estate known as Hyde Park to use as their spring and fall country estate. Frederick Vanderbilt was a quiet man, active in the business of directing 22 railroads, while Louise was a wealthy socialite. They built a Neoclassical Beaux Arts mansion furnished with European antiques, and outfitted with all the latest innovations: electricity, indoor plumbing, and central heating. The final cost totaled $2.25 million—about $60.5 million in today’s dollars.

Hyde Park was a self-sustaining estate, providing food and flowers for the family’s needs there and at their other homes. The grounds had been shaped by several previous owners with horticultural interests. In the early 1800s, Dr. Samuel Bard planted exotic plants and trees in the European Picturesque style.

The next owner, Dr. David Hosack, had a passion for botany and established the first formal gardens on the estate, as well as extensive greenhouses to hold his exotic plants. He also hired André Parmentier, the most renowned landscape architect of that time, to design the landscape. Roads, bridges, and lawns were laid out to compliment natural features, while large areas were left wild. Today, much of Parmentier’s original design remains and continues to be admired for its grace and beauty. In the late 1800s, owner Walter Langdon, Jr., laid out the first formal gardens. He built the gardener’s cottage, tool house, and garden walls, which remain and are in use today.

The Vanderbilts added many amenities to the property to make it accessible, practical and beautiful. They installed their own railroad station (he was a railroad tycoon, after all), boat docks, a coach house, two new bridges over Crum Elbow Creek, a power station, and extensive landscaping.

A large, formal garden was common to most Gilded Age estates, and Frederick Vanderbilt, who had a horticulture degree from Yale University, established the Italian-style, terraced garden that we see today. An esplanade of cherry trees leads to a walled perennial garden, which opens up to a long reflecting pool and a brick loggia decorated with the statue of an odalisque in mid-dance. The path continues to a two-tier rose garden with a charming summerhouse.

The upper garden features formal beds, while the lower garden was planted in the Victorian “bedding out style” of annuals that swept through the country in the late 1800s. This garden exhibits a mélange of curvilinear shapes—crescents, hearts, and circular beds, all planted with bright annuals.

The Vanderbilts were part of a new wave of urban elite that moved to the Hudson River Valley to enjoy relaxed country living, the sporting life, farming, and outdoor recreation. Hyde Park saw lavish weekend parties with horseback riding, golf, tennis, and swimming, followed by formal dinners and dancing. When not hosting guests, the Vanderbilts strolled through the gardens and greenhouses twice daily and visited the farm.

These greenhouses were operational during the Vanderbilt era. When the Vanderbilts were in residence, the greenhouse staff began each day by gathering cut flowers from the carnation and rose houses, bringing them to the mansion, and arranging them in the service area of the basement. The parlor and chamber maids placed them in designated locations on the upper floors. The butler ordered flowers from the greenhouses daily, and created all of the arrangements for the Dining Room himself. If the Vanderbilts were in New York, the greenhouse staff boxed the cut flowers and shipped them to the city.

After Frederick Vanderbilt’s death in 1938, the federal government purchased the estate, thanks to the intervention of President Franklin Roosevelt. While the grounds, landscaping, and buildings were preserved, there were no funds to maintain the gardens, which suffered years of neglect. Today the landscape is restored to its 1930s appearance, thanks to the Frederick William Vanderbilt Garden Association—a group of volunteers who have worked tirelessly to bring the gardens to their former glory. The formal gardens were replanted with 3,200 perennials and 2,000 roses. An additional 6,500 annuals are planted every year. The restored gravel paths, shady arbors, ornate statues, and bubbling fountains give the visitor a glimpse of life in the Gilded Age. The mansion is also beautifully decorated and open for tours for the holidays.

Vanderbilt Mansion, 119 Vanderbilt Park Rd., Hyde Park, NY 12538, (845) 229-7770 nps.gov/vama/index.htm

Excerpted from The Garden Tourist: 120 Destination Gardens and Nurseries in the Northeast


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